When people think about South India, they visualise Ooty. Ooty features misty hills, tea plantations and a world-famous lake. I expected a typical viewpoint, but it turned out to be a town with a slow-moving train, ancient churches, and existing tribal culture. I spent four days in the area, walked around, rode the train and learnt about the locals.
Why Ooty deserves more than a quick stop
Ooty, or Udhagamandalam, is a hill station in Tamil Nadu’s Nilgiri Hills. The British used it as a summer resort. That is why we can still see English-style stone cottages there. Most tourists visit five scenic points in Ooty. I chose to spend more time in the city.
The toy train ride from Mettupalayam to Ooty
The Nilgiri train is a UNESCO heritage site. It is a train that climbs from Mettupalayam to Ooty. The journey is slow, which gives it its charm. I sat by the window drinking tea, hearing the sounds of the train.
Ooty Government Botanical Garden
Established in 1848, the Botanical Garden is nestled in the town with its terraced slopes. Old trees and unique types of ferns add to the garden’s beauty. I went to this garden on a weekday morning. I had a great time sitting and relaxing on a bench.
Ooty Lake and a quiet morning on the water
Ooty Lake is a man-made lake, constructed in 1824. In the evening, the lake sees many visitors. However, I went there in the morning hours. The boats were still, and mist had settled on the waters. I hired a small paddle boat and paddled slowly, admiring the eucalyptus trees that towered over the lake.
St Stephen’s Church and old Ooty
St Stephen’s Church stands on a hill above the town. Established in 1829, its wooden beams came from Srirangapatna, the palace of Tipu Sultan. The building is simple, with tall windows and a quiet courtyard. I stood inside for a few minutes. Cool air, old wood and soft light made it feel timeless.
A tea estate walk that taught me something new about Ooty
Tea is the heart of the Nilgiris. A short trip to a tea estate close to Ooty taught me a lot. The guide told us how leaves were picked and dried. The smell of the factory was pleasant and inviting. I learned that the best quality tea comes from the plant’s two leaves and a bud. I bought a packet of tea to take home.
Meeting Ooty’s Toda community
The Todas are among the oldest tribes in the Nilgiris. They inhabit small settlements called munds, where houses are shaped like barrels. Their shawls that are called pukhoor, are well known in India. I visited a small craft shop run by Toda women. One of them kindly explained the various designs and their meanings. Their shawls are all made by hand, and no two are the same.
Getting to Ooty and the Nilgiris without the stress
Ooty has no airport, so visitors need to fly to Chennai or Coimbatore and drive up. The road is long, with many bends. I wanted to start the trip comfortably, fly rested, and arrive with energy. Booking business class flight tickets to Chennai helped me do exactly that, as they offer a more comfortable way to travel before a long road journey. Spacious seating, priority check-in and smoother airport services made a noticeable difference. I chose this option and arrived with enough energy to enjoy the hills the next morning.
Ooty’s Simple vegetarian food and homemade chocolates
Ooty has a warm, simple food culture. I ate idli, sambar and hot coconut chutney at a small eatery near the market. Ooty varkey, a flaky local biscuit, went well with tea. Many shops sell homemade chocolates, wrapped in bright paper. I tried one with roasted nuts. It was rich, smooth and slightly sweet.
Doddabetta Peak without the crowd in Ooty
Doddabetta is the tallest peak in the Nilgiris, about 2,637 m. The viewpoint is quite famous, but the success of your visit depends on the timing. I arrived at sunrise, before the crowds. Clouds hovered in the valley below. The tea vendor gave me a hot cup of tea, as we enjoyed the view together.
Final thoughts
I went to Ooty to see the beautiful landscape, and this is what I got. But I don’t remember the views. My best memories are of a slow train running through lush hills, a gardener smiling in the Botanical Garden and a Toda woman talking to me about her embroidery technique. All these little things made my journey great.
